Cuba : au delà des images idéalistes de Révolution, portées à juste titre, par les illustres Che Guevara et Fidel Castro, se cache une ile.
Une ile particulière et contrastée, bercée par les eaux chaudes des Antilles, voisine (et si lointaine) de l’Amérique toute proche. Une ile qui referme ses secrets, qu’il faut aller chercher par soi même, loin des circuits touristiques pour retraités en manque de soleil. Comme toute Terre immergée, elle enfante ses habitants, elle les façonne à son image, accueillants et ouverts, méfiants et orgueilleux.
Son Histoire contemporaine fait de ce petit bout de Paradis l’ultime exemple de politique communiste poussée son paroxysme.
Il serait trop facile, prétentieux de vouloir juger et d’avoir son propre avis sans avoir cherché à gratter le coté surfait et idéaliste du « Système » que l’on veut bien nous montrer.
Oubliant le célèbre refrain d’ « Hasta Siempre », il faut s’embarquer, sans préjugés, dans une expérience qui s’avérera enrichissante et unique.
Ce qui frappe à la sortie de l’avion, c’est immédiatement le climat. Un climat qui vous laisse sur place, une chaleur étouffante et suffocante. Une fois habitué à ce climat semi-tropical, l’aventure au pays des « Barbudos » peut commencer !
L’arrivée a la Havana est des plus singulière. Comme si l’horloge du temps c’était arrêtée en 1959, date de la Révolution et de l’Independence du pays menées par les désormais célèbres Fidel, Che et Camillo.
Ville débordante de vie, où les différences de couches sociales vous explose à la figure et entraine une remise en question personnelle.
La misère serait moins pénible au soleil disait l chanson, elle se vérifie ici.
Une oisiveté déconcertante se dégage de ses enivrantes façades délabrées. Le soleil envoie ici des rayons qui poussent à s’asseoir sur le pas de sa porte seul,à deux, à dix, autour d’une partie de dominos, à s’afférer par bandes de 20 autours de vieilles voitures américaines qui rendraient jaloux tous collectionneurs remplis de Dollars.
Ici l’argent est différent.
C’est même la façon de le voir en vérité, qui l’est. Il serait faux de dire qu’il n’est pas la quête de tout un chacun, encore plus que coté population locale, on voit depuis quelques années et avec l’arrivée du tourisme de masse qu’avec des Dollars tous s’achète, dans un pays où il est difficile de sortir du sempiternel plat de riz-haricots (moros y cristianos) qui rempli les assiettes de milliers de cubains chaque jours.
Pour tenter de comprendre ce Système si particulier, quoi de mieux que de s’y faire inviter par ceux qui en jouissent eux-mêmes et partir a la rencontre de ses habitants.
Après hésitation, les cubains se livrent, parlent d’eux, de leurs vies, de ce qu’ils espèrent ou n’espèrent plus, pour certains…
Maria, propriétaire d’une Casa particular (chambre louée dans sa propre maison) explique par exemple qu’ici tout est taxé. Sur 20 CUC (monnaie convertible utilisée par les touristes équivalent à 1 $) qu’elle perçoit pour une location, 18 sont taxés par l’Etat ;
« Nous avons cependant pleins d’avantages, pouvoir rencontrer de nouvelles personnes tous les jours, d’avoir un certain revenu, même si l’Etat en prend une bonne partie ! Il faut que tu saches que c’est un parcours du combattant pour obtenir l’autorisation pour une Casa particular. Il faut jouer de ses relations, suivre un cahier des charges très stricte, s’y tenir et après faire sa place dans le grands choix qui s’offrent aux touristes. Alors en plus des chambres, je propose des repas aux touristes pour 8 CUC, un peu plus pour de la langouste, mais n’en parle pas je pourrais avoir des ennuis … »
Le ton est clair.
Si tu ne sais pas te débrouiller ici tu es mort ; tout ici n’est que débrouille.
Il faut faire continuer à vivre ces voitures des sixties à l’aide de fils de fers ou tout ce qu’on trouve !
Jorge, 20 ans, chauffeur de « taxi pirate » entre l’aéroport et Habana vieja s’emporte sur les « nouvelles voitures du pays » :
« Les chinois ont fais venir des caisses et des bus de leur pays, tu parles, ça vaut rien. Tu vois ma vielle Lada, c’est mon père qui me l donnée, je ne sais pas en kilomètres mis ça fait 20 ans qu’elle roule tous les jours. En plus, c’est facile à réparer les « Russes » ! Les « Chinoises » avec l’électronique, si ca commence à tomber en panne, tu peux la jeter. »
Les cousins communistes asiatiques essayent ici aussi de tisser leurs toiles, d’implanter leur emprise en feignant d’aider leurs « petits frères » cubains. L’empreinte de l’ancienne gloire de l’empire d’URSS est ici, dans l’un des derniers pays coco du Monde, encore bien présente !
L’hostilité envers les « gringos » américains et la guerre froide pas si lointaine reste encore dans les esprits de ceux qui ont fait en 60 ce qu’est Cuba aujourd’hui.
Pour la jeune génération, le point de vue est diamétralement opposé.
« Moi le Che et toutes ces conneries, je m’en fous pas mal ! » témoigne Juan, 23 ans, docker à Santiago, « moi, ce que je veux c’est écouter du reggaeton en boite, voir des filles, avoir la paire de chaussure qui me plait. Tu t’imagines que j’ai jamais été sur Internet, je sais même quoi sa ressemble un ordinateur ! Les téléphones portables, je ne t’en parle même pas… Je vois des touristes avec ça à l’oreille toute la journée, je sais même pas ce qu’ils ont autant à raconter ! Moi si je veux m’en payer un, il me faut un an et demi de salaire !! Pffff…C’est n’importe quoi. Je me demande si cette Révolution elle a servi à quelque chose finalement… Moi, j’ai aucun espoir en n’importe quoi que ce soit. Tant qu’ « Ils » seront au pouvoir, il n’y aura aucun Avenir. Tu vois, j’ai 23 ans, je me dis que mon seul avenir, c’est la Mort… »
Radicale. Amère et frustrée. Voila comment se passe la jeunesse sous le soleil de Cuba. Entre sexe, alcool et musique. D’un regard de jeune occidental, ces mots sonnent peut-être comme un monde idyllique. L’avenir et les perspectives sont tellement différents qu’une comparaison n’aurait pas de sens.
Alors, on peut aider à sa façon, l’embargo américain n’arrangeant pas les choses (on note une légère évolution depuis l’ère Obama).
Ce système tant décrié a pourtant des exemples éloquents à donner aux gouvernements du G20.
Ernesto, 72 ans retraité au milieu des champs de tabacs à Vinales, m’explique autour d’un Rhum 14 años que depuis la Révolution, des secteurs clés tels que l’éducation et la santé sont devenus les priorités de l’Etat :
« Ici, tous les enfants vont à l’école, de 7 à 18 ans, après, ils peuvent aller à la faculté, il n’y a pas toujours de boulot, mais au moins ils peuvent le faire. »
Avec un taux d’alphabétisation équivalent aux pays de l’U.E, Cuba peut être fier pour un pays en développement.
« Tu vois, moi, j’ai souvent mal au dos. Je vais chez le kiné, c’est gratuit ! Les dents, les yeux, c’est pareil. Le truc c’est qu’on a une faille. Sur le territoire, la santé c’est gratuit pour tout le monde ? A lors y’a plein de touristes qui viennent pour se faire opérer, ou pour de la rééducation, ici c’est gratuit et au soleil. Moi, je suis sur que si j’ai un malaise dans la rue chez toi, personne ne va me regarder … ! (CQFD)
Moi, ce dont j’ai peur, c’est que les jeunes d’ici croient que leur avenir est ailleurs, qu’il faut rejoindre leurs cousins à Miami pour réussir. Le truc c’est que qu’il ne faut pas trop en demander. L’Etat, te donne une maison, une petite Libretta (ration alimentaire contenant quelques vivres de premières nécessitées), des terrains agricoles si tu veux êtres agriculteurs ou un boulot à l’usine si tu veux être ouvrier.
Les jeunes reproches tout à l’Etat, mais il y a des pays pauvres qui n’ont mêmes pas le quart de ce qu’on a ! Du rhum, de la musique, des cigares et du soleil ! Tu veux quoi de plus ? La vie faut la prendre comme elle vient. »
Deux philosophies de Vie contrastées qui révèle un peu plus le fossé générationnel entre les post 59 et les petits fils de la Révolution.
Rêve de libéralisme d’un coté et idéalisme statique de l’autre.
Le pays semble être dans l’impasse, sans visions nettes de développements et d’ouverture au Monde. Tant que l’Etat aura la main mise sur tout, essentiellement sur la diffusion de l’information, Internet banni, sa jeunesse ne pourra avoir qu’une image faussée de l’extérieur, représenté par les artefacts arborés par les touristes sans retenues.
Une nouvelle ère arrivera bientôt. Dans quelle direction elle se lèvera, seul l’avenir le décidera tellement la situation est bloqué par le gouvernement Castro.
Se rendre à Cuba et sortir des clichés, c’est partir à la rencontre de ses couleurs, de sa passion, de l’amour de sa mixité latino-africaine.
C’est tomber amoureux de ses danseuses de salsa, enivrantes autant que l’est son rhum, autant que le sont les gens que vous rencontrez, qui vous manquent et vous touchent.
C’est se sentir encore plus insulaire, avec sa beauté et ses défauts orgueilleux.
C’est enfin se faire son propre avis, en sortant des images ensoleillées qui font vendre, et avoir envie d’y retourner pour la voir évoluer en même temps que l’on évolue soi même.
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